Bonjour tout le monde! Next year I'm going to Paris, the
city of light, love, fashion, and food. Being a HUGE Francophile, I
jumped on the opportunity to travel there. However, nothing can seem
more challenging than being a vegan in a country that specializes in
meats and dairy. I've been completing a fair amount of research lately
on places to go to eat, what to eat, what to buy, and other tips for a
vegan in Paris. Here's what I've found.(Click on the title to find the
source of the following information)
Useful Phrases
I am vegetarian -
Je suis végétarien(ne).
I am vegan -
Je suis Végétalien(ne).
Milk -
lait
Eggs -
œufs
Butter -
beurre
Meat -
viande
Cheese -
fromage
Without -
sans
Does it contain cheese?-
Est-ce que cela contient du fromage ? or
Est-ce qu'il y a du fromage dedans ?
I would like that, without cheese please.-
Je voudrais ça, sans fromage s'il vous plaît.
I do not eat animal products.-
Je ne mange pas de produits d'origine animale.
Tips
Unlike in the US, most traditional restaurants are not keen on
changing dishes on the menu. Altering preparations of an item is
frowned upon, so unless you are dining at one of the following vegan
restaurants, don’t expect a non-vegan restaurant to be able to
accommodate your dietary needs.
Restaurants
Saveurs Végét’Halles 41, Rue des Bourdonnais, Paris 75001
Métro: Chatelet or Les Halles
01 40 41 93 95
This
restaurant is almost exclusively vegan with only one non-vegan item on
the menu, the lasagna. Situated in the former location of La Victoire
Suprême du Coeur. Great crispy fried tofu. Plenty of vegan desserts.
Oriental feel. Food is well presented. 95% vegan food. 70% organic.
Gluten-free available. Wheelchair accessible. Open 10.00-15.00 and
18.00-23.00
Le Potager du Marais 22, Rue Rambuteau, Paris 75003
Métro: Rambuteau
01 42 74 24 66
Organic,
with all-day long service. Small, cozy, rustic and charming ambience.
Gets busy weekend evenings (so call for a reservation). Serves
traditional French cuisine made vegetarian with one page of vegan
selections (vegan soups, tarte, pate, patty, gratin, moussaka, desserts,
and more). The pastry chef prepares all vegan desserts including lemon
bars, carrot cake and blueberry bundt. 3-course dinner menu available
for about 25 euro. Accepts credit cards. Open Mon-Fri 6-10pm, Sat-Sun
lunch and dinner.
Pousse-Pousse 7, rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 75009
Métro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette
01 53 16 10 81
World-class
raw cuisine in the heart of Paris in a small and friendly location.
Offers raw food as well as cooked using ingredients including sprouts,
seaweeds, fresh pollens, mixed herbs. Also has organic bread and raw
dried crackers, hot chocolate cake, panna cotta made with agar-agar and
rice milk, fresh fruit salad with lucuma cream, one cooked soup and one
raw soup each day. Gluten free and mostly vegan. Has outdoor seating.
Open 11.00-15.30 and 16.30-19.30.
Au Grain de Folie 24, Rue la Vieuville, Paris 75018
Métro: Abesses
01 42 58 15 57
Closed Monday mornings. A little nook of a place with helpful service and standard macrobiotic fare.
Piccolo Teatro 6, rue des Ecouffes, 4th arrondissement
01 42721779
Metro: St-Paul
Combine
good vegetarian food with romance in Piccolo Teatro. This place is
hidden away on Rue des Ecouffes in the Marais district. Intimate
setting with Italian and Indonesian cuisine. The menu provides a mix of
hot soups, salads, curries, pasta, and organic red wine. Main courses
cost 10-15 € (special tasting menu for first-timers). Reservations are
recommended.
Le Paradis du Fruit 1 Rue des Tournelles, 75006
01 40279479
Metro: Bastille
Part
of a chain of restaurants, this French cafe offers a tropical
atmosphere and an innovative menu. While not exclusively vegetarian,
it’s worth a mention as there are plenty of healthy, meatless options to
choose from, including soybean salads, skewered tofu and pineapple, and
Indian vegetable curry. Main courses range from €10-€15. Inventive ice
creams, juices and smoothies average at €7, and are a must for any visit
here. Great for a refreshing spring or summer meal.
****The Gentle Gourmet **** 21 Rue Duret, Paris 75016 (at Ave de la Grande Armee, Ave Foch, near Arc de Triomphe)
33-01-45004655
Vegan, International, Western, Organic, Beer/Wine
This is actually an entirely vegan B&B. They offer private
dining experiences and even have a cooking school located above their
store in a pretty courtyard. They serve set menu bistro and gourmet
meals. Menus are made from changing seasonal foods available and are as
organic and local as possible. Dishes include traditional and
contemporary vegan fusion cuisine from across the globe. All special
diets (non-gluten, low-salt, nut-free, etc.) can be catered to. Mon,
Wed, Fri, Sat are gourmet vegan meals (40 euros without wine, 50 euros
with wine) with an optional hands-on cooking class beforehand (45
euros). Tue, Thur, Sun are the 25/30 euro bistro meal. Reservations must
be made before 2pm the day of the meal but preferably earlier as only a
maximum of 10 people will be served per night. Many other cooking
classes are offered during the day, and the entire program and calendar
can be seen on their website. Accepts credit cards.
Loving Hut 92, Boulevard de Beaumarchais, Paris 75011 (at Train: Saint-Sébastien Froissard / Line 8)
0148064384
Vegan
Chinese infused French cuisine. Part of international chain of vegan
restaurants opened by followers of Supreme Master Ching Hai, an advocate
for vegetarian living (there are several
US locations in Nor Cal
but I’ve hear it is kind of like a cult?). Accepts credit cards. Open
Mon-Thur 12noon-3pm and 6:30pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 12noon-3pm and
7pm-10:30pm, closed Sun.
Voy Alimento 23 Rue des Vinaigriers (75010)
0142010344
Vegan,
Organic, South American juice bar and plant shop. The juice bar
features hot and cold beverages made from the plants and products sold
in the shop, such as purple corn, urucum, cocoa, acerola, klamath. At
lunchtime it is also a vegan restaurant wherein a large range of the
plants and micro-algae are represented in the recipes. Vegan brunch on
weekends. Location is on a street next to Canal Saint Martin with
outdoor seating available. Wheelchair accessible. Accepts credit
cards. Open Mon-Sun.
Oh! Bio 58 Rue Rambuteau (75003) (at Métro : Rambuteau / Square des Halles)
0144611967
Vegan-friendly,
organic take-away with French food and beer/wine. Everything is 100%
organic. Located in front of the Georges Pompidou Centre, in the heart
of Paris. Has outdoor seating. Accepts credit cards. Open daily
10am-9pm.
Saravana Bhavan 170 Rue Du Faubourg, Saint Denis (75010)
0667281313
Metro: Gare de l’Est. Paris Indian restaurant serving vegetarian cuisine. Accepts credit cards. Open Mon-Sun 8am-10:30pm.
Soya 20, rue de la Pierre Levée (75010)
01-48-06-33-02
Vegan-friendly
and 100% organic. Offering mezzé and couscous. Saturday brunch costs
around 28€. For vegan dessert options phone ahead. Outdoor seating.
Open Mon-Sun 1200-1530 and 1900-2300.
Tien Hiang 92 Rue du Chemin Vert (75011) (at Rue St. Maur, between Metro Voltaire and St. Maur)
0143558388
Vegan-friendly,
Chinese, Buddhist vegetarian restaurant. Menu is in English and
includes mock-meat options. No eggs or alcohol used. Average price per
dish is around 5.5-7 euro, or around 7.5-10 euros for a 3-course.
Accepts credit cards. Open Tue-Sun 11.30am-3pm, 6.30-10.30pm, closed
Mon.
Tien Hiang 2 (second location) 14 Rue Bichat (75010)
0142000823
The
second Tien Hiang location (also Asian vegan food). They offer
vegetarian cuisine with dishes from Thailand, China, Malaysia. The chef
is very experienced in vegetarian cooking. Accepts credit cards. Open
11.30am-3.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm, closed Tue.
Le Végétarien 65, rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, Paris 75003
Métro: Poissonnière
06 60 97 16 12
Small
restaurant serving simple, hearty meals like falafel, lasagna, quiche,
soups. Food can be eaten in the restaurant or be taken out. Service is
quick. Full menu with drinks for under 10 euro. Caters mainly to the
people working in the area. Accepts credit cards. Open Mon-Fri from
12pm, closed Sat-Sun.
Le Grand Appétit 9, Rue la Cerisaie, Paris 75004
Métro: Bastille
01 40 27 04 95
All
vegan restaurant. Macrobiotic and hippie with a no frills experience.
They serve soups, veggie sushi, vegetable platters, lemon tart, and
other vegan foods. Great grocery store next door. Open Mon-Thur
12-9pm, Fri 12-2.30pm.
La Victoire Suprême du Coeur 27-31, rue du Bourg Tibourg, Paris 75004
Métro: Hôtel de Ville
01 40 41 95 03
All
vegan restaurant. Run by devotees of Sri Chinmoy. Recently introduced
a wine list. Sunday’s lunch buffet is very popular. Great location
for people watching.
Les Cinq Saveurs d’Anada 72, Rue Cardinal-Lemoine, Paris 75005
Métro: Place Monge
01 43 29 58 54
Great macrobiotic plates. Very friendly staff and in a charming part of the Latin Quarter.
Le Grenier de Notre-Dame 18, Rue de la Bûcherie, Paris 75005
Métro: Saint-Michel
01 43 29 98 29
or Rue des Deux-Ponts, Paris 75004
Métro: Pont Marie
100%
vegetarian. Welcoming, macrobiotic oriented, Paris institution.
Serves vegetarian versions of French peasant food (ie vegetarian
paella). Nice atmosphere. English spoken. Prices moderate to
expensive. Outdoor seating available. Accepts credit cards. Open daily
lunch and dinner 12-14.30 and 19-23.0
Maoz Vegetarian 8, Rue Xavier Privas, Paris 75005
Métro: Saint Michel
01 43 26 36 00
or 36, Rue Saint-Andre des Arts, Paris 75005 (at Rue Seguier)
Small
falafel place (part of a chain). Close to vegan except for a few cheesy
items and the mayonnaise in the coleslaw. Order at the counter, fight
for one of the three tables or walk to the Seine with your sandwich.
Guen Mai 6, Rue Cardinale, Paris 75006
Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
01 43 26 03 24
Name
means “brown rice” in Japanese. Macrobiotic. Counter service and
dining. Tucked behind St.-Germain-des-Prés with sidewalk café tables.
Bob’s Juice Bar 15, Rue Lucien Sampaix, Paris 75010
Métro: Jacques Bonsergent
09 50 06 36 18
A lovely juice bar that also does green juices. Vegan salad and soup options everyday. Deemed “the best juice bar in town”.
Bob’s Kitchen 74, Rue des Gravilliers, Paris 75003 (at Rue de Turbigo)
0144556677
Métro: Gare du Nord or La Chapelle
Ovo,
Lacto, Western, Juice bar, Take-out. More vegetarian than vegan
selections. They offer lunch and Sunday brunch options. Super friendly
staff. Two long communal tables for seating. Fast service. Cash only.
Open Mon-Fri 8am-3pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm.
Krishna Bhavan 24, Rue Cail, Paris 75010
01 42 05 78 43
Southern
Indian/Sri Lankan, vegan friendly with great prices (be sure to ask for
dishes without milk dips or yoghurt dips). Open Tue-Sun 11.00-23.00,
closed Monday. Accepts credit cards.
Green Garden 20, Rue Nationale, Paris 75013
Métro: Porte d’Ivry
01 45 82 99 54
Another Buddhist Chinese restaurant with a big menu. It’s right in Chinatown.
Aquarius 40, Rue Gergovie, 75014 Paris
Métro: Pernety
01 45 41 36 88
Vegetarian with basically nothing for vegans.
*Now may be replaced by Le Marais (see below).
Le Marais 54 Rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 75004
01 48874871
Metro: Hôtel de Ville or St-Paul
Formerly
Aquarius, this restaurant is one of the best-known among the Paris
vegetarian community. The menu is a combination of salads, wheat
pancakes and savory tarts, with fish dishes also a feature (puritans
beware!). Organic wine is on the menu but smoking is not, making it one
of the few restaurants to offer a smoke-free environment pre-2008.
Vegans should check with wait staff before ordering. There have been
some reports of unfriendly service here.
Joy in Food 2, Rue Truffaut, Paris 75017
Métro: Place Clichy or Rome
01 43 87 96 79
Hole
in the wall place open for lunch on weekdays only. A popular
restaurant with a small but varied menu of salads, soups, vegetable
tarts, ragouts over rice, desserts, and organic wine (vegan option for
each course). Home-style cooking. Open Mon-Fri lunch only, weekend
dinner by appointment.
Veggie 38, rue de Verneuil
0142612861
Vegan-friendly,
Ovo, Lacto, Organic, Western, Mediterranean, Beer/Wine. Take-out and
delivery vegetarian food made with all organic products. Seasonal and
daily changing menu. Specialties are vegetables pies, risotto, and
curry. Also offers apple pies, crumbles, and chocolate cakes. Accepts
credit cards. Open Mon-Fri.
Abyssinia 5 Rue Martin Garat (75020) (at Rue Belgrand)
0140316642
Vegan-friendly
Ethiopian/African food with non-veg (meat) options, but has veg courses
available. Reservations required. Wheelchair accessible. Accepts
credit cards. Open Mon-Sun 12-2pm, 7-11pm.
Cojean Many locations (see link above)
Offering take-away or dine-in options of soups, salads, wraps, etc.
Groceries
Naturalia
organic food stores are located all over the city and they have a good
range of lentils, quinoa, and veggie salads already prepared, which are
convenient for take-away. Unfortunately, it is semi-pricey.
There are also many organic food
co-ops around town,
but you have to keep your eye out for those. Prices are a bit better,
they have lots of bulk options, and more interesting variety.
Izrael 30 rue Francois-Miron
Metro: Pont Marie
Bulk bins of nuts, dried fruit, olives, spices, etc. Spices spices spices.
Rendez-Vous de La Nature Organic
food store on Rue Mouffetard with a wide variety of soy based yogurts,
as well as non-dairy milks (almond, soy), plus tofu. They also have
bulk bins of oats, nuts and muesli. Moderately priced.
Le Bon Marche Epicerie (La Grande Epicerie)
38, Rue Sèvres
75007 Paris, France
+33 1 42 22 10 12
Touted as “the” best gourmet grocery store in Paris with a selection of everything, including organic and vegan treats.
Monoprix
has vegan options too (they sell food now? who knew?). I got a
seaweed salad there, but they have many many other pre-packaged eats and
basic groceries (see below).
Markets
Marché Biologique Raspail on Sundays is said to be
the best but has a reputation of being the most expensive as well. It
runs from Rue de Rennes to Rue du Cherche Midi from 9 a.m.-1:30 p.m.
Metro: Rennes/Sevres-Babylone
Marché Bastille is also on Sundays and at the Bastille end there’s a Lebanese stand selling hot-off-the-grill food.
Marche des Enfants Rouges (take the Metro Filles du
Calvaire to 39 Rue de Bretagne) to get to this open-air market. It has
stands selling everything from juices to salad bars to Moroccan
vegetable tangines and couscous.
There are many corner markets off the main streets of Paris with
fruit, veggies, and basic groceries, too (good for those Mondays when
the main places are closed).
Ingredients:
